last updated | nov 22 2021
*
about
an island 7 hours by ferry from athens, known for its volcanic calderas and romance of sunsets. normally unbearably crowded and touristy in summer, but i chose to come here after naxos, in november.
journey notes
arrived | nov 12 2021
departure | dec 10 2021
length of stay | 28 days
places visited
karavolades stairs | wide winding path guarded by donkeys | nov 13
skaros rock, or the kingdom of volanic rocks | nov 15
hike from fira to oia | on the edge of a dream | nov 19
caldera walks | all the time
perissa beach | nov 22
*
greek island mountain hermit cake home | nov 19
old man’s bird shack in the middle of nowhere | nov 21
*
a collection of still images
entries
have you ever been to a black sand beach? it feels a bit like an exquisitely beautiful, post-apocalyptic (post-volcanic) world.
i picked a cactus fruit from the middle of nowhere, and then i got attached. now it’s time to say goodbye.
the act of leaving is a process (by now, a ritual) which begins the moment I ask the question: should I leave?
these days on the island have been so windy. if it’s windy and cloudy (and dark), and the wind is strong enough, it feels like you’re at the end of the world. but windy and sunny is beautiful.
i did this drawing of santorini wild plants that i collected, the day before. i sat outside in the morning sun, on the patio, and drew it, with a cup of coffee, as patiently as i could - (still lifes require you to still your own life)
I went offline for three days last week, hiked from fira to oia - (not the entire way) - and stopped to collect these wild plants along the way.
one day, in the next few years, i would like to buy a house on an island, perhaps at the edge of a cliff - a place where i can see the sunrise and watch birds flying from my terrace.
a serendipitous encounter after I got lost one day — the essence of life in fifteen minutes.
I prepared for my own thirtieth birthday — spent alone, on the island of santorini - as if preparing an elaborate labor of love for someone else.
it is the kind of hike where you feel as though you are walking along the edge of the world — or the edge of a dream.
I watched the moon rise last night - the day I turned thirty - and it was beautifully serenditipous - it happened because I missed the 4:35pm bus
and so i find myself in a place which is famous for its sunsets - and i am asking myself the question: but is the sun not the same, everywhere?
the phrase “breathtaking views” has been used so much to describe beautiful places - that we are no longer sure exactly what it means. I will tell you what it means
yesterday I went walking along the calderas before sunset - (there was no sunset, it was so cloudy) - encountered two cats, one dog, and several humans
an ongoing illustrated map of santorini which i’ll add, edit, evolve as i discover more of this island.
skaros rock is a rock formation which juts out into the sea, and venetian fortress ruins that look like a pile of rocks - so I call it: the kingdom of volcanic rocks.
on my first day in santorini, I walked from where I’m staying to fira, along a footpath through the caldera of breathtaking views, down to karavolades stairs, which should be called - the wide winding path guarded by donkeys