getting around istanbul traffic

 

this red dot is me: traveling from my home on top of a hill — up and down more tiny, violent hills, wading through the overwhelming friction of fish traffic to catch the dolmuş - a shared taxi-van, which costs 7.75 liras (at this moment of writing), and only departs from set destinations when it’s full.

this is istanbul: as accurately as I can capture it. surrounded on all sides by water, full of chaotic oceanic life, dark and heavy and old, full of houses at the far ends of hills, dense neighborhoods inside knotted streets which feel like a tangle of tree roots, while street cats and dogs roam (at once imprisioned and free) chasing their own shadows at the bottom of the ocean floor. then there’s clouds, and fig trees, and turtles, and stairs — lots of stairs.